Congratulations on your new hydromulch! The next few weeks are the most important for your lawn's success. Follow this guide closely and you'll have a thick, healthy bermuda lawn before you know it.
On a Mission spray agreement? We handle the fertilizing and weed control in this guide — skip those sections.
Watering Schedule
| **Timeframe*\ | **Watering*\ | **Notes*\ |
|---|---|---|
| Days 1–21 | 2–3 times per day | Light & frequent — keep mulch moist but not soaked |
| Weeks 4–6 | Every other day | Deeper soaks as roots establish (15–20 min per zone) |
| Week 7+ | 2–3 times per week | 1–1.5" of water per week total through summer |
Most important rule: Never let the green mulch mat fully dry out during the first 3 weeks. In Lubbock's wind and heat, this may mean 3 waterings on hot, windy days. Dry mulch = failed germination.
Mowing
- Wait until grass reaches 3–4 inches tall before the first mow — typically 4–6 weeks after application.
- First cut height: Set your mower to 2.5–3 inches. Step the height down gradually over the next few mows — never remove more than ⅓ of the blade at once.
- Once established, bermudagrass prefers a short cut — work down to and maintain 1–2 inches through the growing season.
- Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades tear and stress new turf.
Stay off the lawn: Avoid all foot traffic for the first 3–4 weeks. Even light foot traffic can damage tender new roots and create bare spots.
Fertilizing
- Weeks 4–6: Apply a starter fertilizer (high phosphorus, e.g. 18-24-12) once you see consistent germination to encourage deep root development.
- Month 2 onward: Switch to a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer (e.g. 32-0-10) applied monthly through the growing season (May–September).
- Fall (October): Apply a winterizer fertilizer (low nitrogen, higher potassium) before dormancy to strengthen roots for winter.
- Important: Follow label rates. Over-fertilizing burns new turf — more is not better.
Weed Control
New bermuda is vulnerable. Follow this order of operations:
- Weeks 1–6: Do not apply any herbicide — pre- or post-emergent. It will kill your new grass.
- Weeks 6–8: Once established and you've mowed 2–3 times, broadleaf weeds can be treated with a selective post-emergent labeled safe for bermuda.
- Following spring: Apply a pre-emergent in early March (before soil hits 55°F) to prevent crabgrass and warm-season weeds.
Lubbock tip: Goathead (puncturevine) is common in West Texas. Pull by hand before Week 6. After establishment, treat with a broadleaf herbicide labeled for bermuda — do not use Roundup or non-selective products near your lawn.
Seasonal Notes — Lubbock, TX
- Spring green-up: Bermuda comes out of dormancy when soil temps hit 65°F+ (typically mid-April to early May). Don't panic if it looks brown until then.
- Summer: Peak growing season. Water consistently and mow weekly. Fertilize monthly.
- Fall dormancy: Grass will begin browning after the first frost (~late October). This is normal — your lawn is not dead.
- Winter: No watering or fertilizing needed unless there's a prolonged dry spell (4+ weeks without precipitation).
Questions? We're here to help. Contact us anytime — we want your lawn to succeed just as much as you do.