Your irrigation system is the single biggest lever on both your water bill and the health of everything it waters. A few minutes of attention each month keeps it running efficiently and catches small problems before they become expensive repairs.
Recommended Watering Schedule
| Season | Frequency | Run Time per Zone |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (Mar–May) | 2–3 times per week | 15–20 min (grass); 30–45 min (drip/trees) |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | 3–4 times per week | 20–30 min (grass); 45–60 min (drip/trees) |
| Fall (Sept–Nov) | 1–2 times per week | 10–15 min (grass); 20–30 min (drip/trees) |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Off or monthly only | Run once a month during dry spells only |
Water smart: Run your system early morning (4–8 AM) to reduce evaporation. Lubbock wind and afternoon heat can evaporate up to 50% of water applied midday. Adjust run times based on rainfall — skip a cycle if you've received 1" or more that week.
Your Controller — Key Settings
> * Set the clock first: Make sure the date and time are correct — your controller schedules around them. After any power outage, re-check your settings.
> * Rain/sensor override: If your system has a rain sensor, test it by holding it under running water — the system should shut off. This saves water and prevents overwatering after rain.
> * Seasonal adjust: Most controllers have a "seasonal adjust" or "water budget" feature — a percentage dial that increases or decreases all run times at once. Turn it up in summer, down in fall. This is easier than adjusting each zone individually.
> * Skip a day: Use the "rain delay" or "skip day" feature when it rains rather than manually turning the system off — it automatically resumes your normal schedule.
Monthly Walk-Through
> * Run each zone manually and watch it for a full cycle. Look for heads that aren't popping up, spray that's hitting the house or sidewalk, or areas that aren't being covered.
> * Clogged or tilted heads: Knock a sprinkler head sideways with a lawn mower, and it waters the fence instead of the grass. Straighten or replace as needed.
> * Wet spots between cycles: A constantly wet area that you didn't water is a leak — usually a cracked line or a valve that won't close fully. Address promptly; leaks add up fast on your water bill.
> * Dry spots: If a zone has a consistently dry area, a head may be clogged or the arc/radius needs adjustment. Most heads can be adjusted with a flathead screwdriver.
> * Check drip emitters: Drip emitters clog easily with Lubbock's hard water. Pop out any suspect emitter and check for flow. Replace clogged emitters — they're inexpensive.
Backflow Preventer
City of Lubbock requirement: Irrigation systems connected to city water must have a backflow prevention assembly. It must be tested by a licensed backflow tester when it's installed, then every one to three years depending on the type of assembly. This applies to homes and businesses, and the property owner pays for testing. If it isn't tested, the city can shut off water service and fine up to $2,000 per day (City of Lubbock Ordinance Sec. 28.10.053). Keep your test records; the city may ask for them.
> * Visual inspection monthly: The backflow preventer is the brass device near your water meter or where the irrigation line connects to the house. It should be dry with no dripping. Any leak from the relief ports means it needs service.
> * Do not cover or bury it: The backflow preventer must remain accessible and visible at all times for testing. Do not cover it with mulch, rock, or landscaping.
> * Insulate in winter: Wrap the backflow preventer with insulating foam or a backflow cover before the first freeze. This is the component most commonly damaged by a hard freeze in Lubbock.
Seasonal Tasks
> * Spring startup (March): Turn the water supply back on slowly. Walk each zone and check for any heads damaged over winter. Clean out any debris from heads. Update your controller schedule to spring settings.
> * Summer (June–August): Increase run times and frequency. Check heads monthly — mowing season is when heads get knocked out of alignment. Watch your water bill for unexpected spikes that signal leaks.
> * Fall adjustment (October): Dial back your controller to fall settings. This alone can cut significant water waste. Pre-emergent season — remind your lawn care provider to use heads-up application so product doesn't clog heads.
> * Winterization (late October–November): This is the most important seasonal task. Before the first hard freeze, the water supply must be shut off and the lines blown out with compressed air. Water left in lines expands when it freezes and cracks pipes, heads, and valves — repairs are expensive. Call us to schedule your winterization — it's a service we perform every fall.
Don't skip winterization: Even one hard freeze on an un-winterized system can crack multiple lines, blow valve diaphragms, and damage the backflow preventer. Lubbock can drop below freezing with little warning. Winterize by late October — don't wait for a forecast.
Signs Something Is Wrong
> * Unusually high water bill: The most common sign of a leak. A broken line underground can waste thousands of gallons before you notice it visually.
> * Sunken or soggy ground: A consistently wet patch of grass that you didn't water — likely a cracked line or leaking valve underground.
> * Low pressure in one zone: A broken head, a partially closed valve, or a line leak in that zone. Run the zone and walk the area.
> * Zone won't turn on: Could be a faulty valve solenoid, a wiring issue, or a controller programming problem. Check the controller first — confirm that zone is programmed and the clock is correct.
> * Zone won't turn off: A stuck valve — usually debris in the valve diaphragm. The valve needs to be cleaned or replaced. Turn off the system at the main shutoff until repaired.
> * Controller shows error: Most controllers display error codes. Check your controller manual, or call us to schedule a check.
A Few Don'ts
> * Don't mow over heads: Raise your mower deck when mowing over sprinkler heads, or flag them so your mow crew avoids them. Broken heads are the most common repair we see.
> * Don't plant directly over drip lines: Roots grow into and clog drip emitters and tubing. Know where your lines run before digging or planting.
> * Don't run the system during or right after heavy rain: It wastes water and can overwater plants. Use the rain delay feature or turn the system off manually.
> * Don't ignore small leaks: A small drip at a head or fitting compounds quickly. A leaking head can waste 10+ gallons per cycle.
Questions? We're here to help. Contact us anytime — we want your system running efficiently for years to come.